What a week!We had originally planned on spending a couple of days outside Istanbul (Ephesus or Capidocia) but there was more than enough to fill seven days & we still missed a few things that were on our list.Our friend Betty (also from Ottawa & teaching in Doha with Pat) travelled with us & made it all even more fun.The weather was cooperative (low 20s) with only one heavy downpour, just as we ended our cruise on the Bosphorus.The ensuing rush into the nearby underpass was reminiscent of a panic stampede so we braved the rain instead.We loved the freshness of the air (very little pollution) & the greenery, along with warm & friendly people everywhere. We also had a great place to stay (Orient International Hostel) thanks to recommendations from Jeff & Ellie (Beijing) & Dan (Ottawa).
Some vivid & random memories:visiting the Blue Mosque together with several thousand others, mostly from the cruise ships; learning to play the national pastime backgammon (“tavla”) from Emrah, a young student working at the Orient Hostel with strong ideas about politics, Islam, & an enlightened Turkey; drinking raki (Turkish version of ouzo & the unofficial national drink) after a long day of walking everywhere; learning how to avoid “invitations” to visit “my shop” or “my restaurant”,eating the same breakfast every day (three slices of cucumber, three slices of tomato, four black olives, two kinds of cheese, one slice of processed meat, & one over-boiled egg);smoking the narghile (hookah shisha) with apple or strawberry flavour while people- watching or just dreaming; experiencing a Turkish bath (hamam) at Cembalitas (built in 1584 by Sinan) but finding it a little over-commercial;imagining the terrible lives of the concubines (up to 800!) in the Topkapi Palace Harem & wondering how many ended their days in a sack at the bottom of the Bosphorus;spending time with friends from Ottawa, Tom & Betty, who just happened to be in Istanbul at the same (Tom worked with Roger at AI);discovering contemporary Turkish art at the Istanbul Modern gallery (notably an exhibition of the work of Sarkis);exploring the vast underground Basilica Cistern with its fish & coin-filled water & spooky vistas among the ancient columns (including two carved Medusa heads lying sideways or up-side-down);staying at the Orient Hostel & the friendly company there (staff & visitors);stray cats everywhere;drinking alcohol in public & eating during Ramadan, in such contrast with the austerity of Islam in the Middle East;eating fresh fish just metres away from the fish market in Karakoy (other side of the Galata Bridge;marveling at the whirling dervishes, spinning like planets in a starry meditation;meeting Jennifer from Edmonton who owns a towel & bathware store in the Arasta Bazaar (as well as a ceramics shop) & is a wonderful source of information & advice about Istanbul (especially places to shop & eat);buying a set ofstunning Iznik tiles (hand made with quartz & metal oxide for pigments);mastering the tramway system & taking the funicular up to Taksim Square (commercial centre of Istanbul & site of revolts & revolutions);confronting the ice cream seller near Taksim Square who had passed us a phony $5 bill (US) & getting our money back with an apology;loving every minute of being there!
Istanbul is a fascinating & delightful place, full of contrasts, tensions, ancient memories & modern promises.It is a city with life & energy everywhere but also a place where it is easy to relax & take life at its own speed.It is hard to imagine not returning there some day.
After a wonderful summer with family (especially grandchildren) in Canada, we arrived back in Qatar last Saturday.We had broken the journey with a few hours in a “day room” at the Heathrow Sheraton Skyline & were able to catch up on some sleep & also spent a couple of hours with Roger’s sister Jill & her daughter Gail.Our friend Betty also stayed at the hotel & so we travelled overnight together back to Doha.
Arriving early Saturday morning in the middle of Ramadan meant that there was little traffic & after getting through immigration at top speed (thanks to our “e-gate” passes) & finding our luggage immediately, we were back “home” before 09h.00.We felt happy to be back & to know how everything works in this unique country.Inevitably, new buildings had sprung up in the last two months while others (sometimes quite new) had been demolished.
We were able to get our new car (2006 Suzuki Jimny) working right away & managed a trip out to our local convenience grocery (Al-Meera) for some essential supplies.Getting used to the traffic culture again was a challenge, particularly in a gear-shift car, but we have survived the first few days & it’s even feeling like natural chaos once more.
Pat went back to school on Sunday for five days of administrative meetings & getting to know new staff including Tina, the new principal.The biggest shock for many was the announcement that James (social science teacher) was not returning, although he is around collecting his belongings.The reasons for his sudden departure are not widely known, but, for those of us who do know, it is still barely comprehensible.Just another reason to wonder at the workings of this strange world.
Equally distressing was the news that our good friend Jenny (known as one of the best teachers at the school) was facing imminent dismissal because of problems with her police clearance report.Nobody seems to know what the issues are but she will find out later this week whether she will be able to continue working &, if so, whether she will have to find a different school.Last year there were several teachers from another school who faced a similar problem & ended up being given three weeks to leave the country!
On Sunday, I joyfully made my way back to my favourite barber’s shop.The experience was as good as ever, although without the smoothie & the massage because, during Ramadan, they would be unacceptable.Yesterday’s challenge was to renew the vehicle registration which expires next week.Anticipating crowds & delays, we went to the Traffic Office after school only to find the place close.Obviously, we had forgotten Ramadan, although there seems to be no way of finding out the office hours.Feeling confident at it would open at 18h.00 we returned, only to find it still closed. A security guard told us that it would open from 20h.00 until 03h.00 next morning!So back we went at 20h.15 & were relieved (& surprised) to find that not only was it open but that the whole process took less than thirty minutes.
So we are gradually acclimatizing to the now/old life.This evening we are invited to an iftar (“break fast”) meal, served after sundown & traditionally opened with dates, followed by lamb & rice & other excellent foods.We went to an iftar last year & feel a lot more confident in taking part now.The meal this evening is hosted by the family of one of the Qatari teaching assistants at the school & it seems as though we will be the only non-Muslims there. The women will eat separately from the men, so we will have many different stories to share afterwards.
Friday marks the beginning of the school Eid break & we have booked our tickets to travel to Istanbul.We will stay in a hostel (Orient International) in the Sultanahmet district, very close to the Blue Mosque & other major attractions.We will probably spend the week there, taking one or two day trips outside the city & on the Bosphorus, with at least one eye open for new birds!We return to Doha on the 24th & will be looking forward to the cooler weather & camping opportunities during the winter months.For now, we are still adjusting to the temperatures in the mid-thirties & a life spent largely inside air-conditioned buildings.Roger will venture out for a half-day’s birding tomorrow, still determined to reach his goal of 200 species.Only 40 to go!
p.s. The iftar meal was wonderful & the family that invited was welcoming & gracious.Roger spent the evening with the men (father, several brothers, & a brother-in-law) & Pat was sent off with the women.The food was outstanding (& the same in both places!) & everyone went out of their way to make us feel comfortable.It’s at such times that the gulf between Muslims & non-Muslims seems totally bridgeable & unnecessary, & yet there is so much suspicion of “the others” that it takes a few first steps to move forwards.
p.p.s. Roger spent six hours birding in mid-thirties heat along the northern coastline (Shamal) of Qatar.Two new species have been added to the list but, alas, no Cream Coloured Courser (target bird of the day).New car is great for birding rough (& soft) terrain.
