Turkish Delights (Istanbul, 17-24 September 2009)

What a week! We had originally planned on spending a couple of days outside Istanbul (Ephesus or Capidocia) but there was more than enough to fill seven days & we still missed a few things that were on our list. Our friend Betty (also from Ottawa & teaching in Doha with Pat) travelled with us & made it all even more fun. The weather was cooperative (low 20s) with only one heavy downpour, just as we ended our cruise on the Bosphorus. The ensuing rush into the nearby underpass was reminiscent of a panic stampede so we braved the rain instead. We loved the freshness of the air (very little pollution) & the greenery, along with warm & friendly people everywhere. We also had a great place to stay (Orient International Hostel) thanks to recommendations from Jeff & Ellie (Beijing) & Dan (Ottawa).

Some vivid & random memories: visiting the Blue Mosque together with several thousand others, mostly from the cruise ships; learning to play the national pastime backgammon (“tavla”) from Emrah, a young student working at the Orient Hostel with strong ideas about politics, Islam, & an enlightened Turkey; drinking raki (Turkish version of ouzo & the unofficial national drink) after a long day of walking everywhere; learning how to avoid “invitations” to visit “my shop” or “my restaurant”, eating the same breakfast every day (three slices of cucumber, three slices of tomato, four black olives, two kinds of cheese, one slice of processed meat, & one over-boiled egg); smoking the narghile (hookah shisha) with apple or strawberry flavour while people- watching or just dreaming; experiencing a Turkish bath (hamam) at Cembalitas (built in 1584 by Sinan) but finding it a little over-commercial; imagining the terrible lives of the concubines (up to 800!) in the Topkapi Palace Harem & wondering how many ended their days in a sack at the bottom of the Bosphorus; spending time with friends from Ottawa, Tom & Betty, who just happened to be in Istanbul at the same (Tom worked with Roger at AI); discovering contemporary Turkish art at the Istanbul Modern gallery (notably an exhibition of the work of Sarkis); exploring the vast underground Basilica Cistern with its fish & coin-filled water & spooky vistas among the ancient columns (including two carved Medusa heads lying sideways or up-side-down); staying at the Orient Hostel & the friendly company there (staff & visitors); stray cats everywhere; drinking alcohol in public & eating during Ramadan, in such contrast with the austerity of Islam in the Middle East; eating fresh fish just metres away from the fish market in Karakoy (other side of the Galata Bridge; marveling at the whirling dervishes, spinning like planets in a starry meditation; meeting Jennifer from Edmonton who owns a towel & bathware store in the Arasta Bazaar (as well as a ceramics shop) & is a wonderful source of information & advice about Istanbul (especially places to shop & eat); buying a set of stunning Iznik tiles (hand made with quartz & metal oxide for pigments); mastering the tramway system & taking the funicular up to Taksim Square (commercial centre of Istanbul & site of revolts & revolutions); confronting the ice cream seller near Taksim Square who had passed us a phony $5 bill (US) & getting our money back with an apology; loving every minute of being there!

Istanbul is a fascinating & delightful place, full of contrasts, tensions, ancient memories & modern promises. It is a city with life & energy everywhere but also a place where it is easy to relax & take life at its own speed. It is hard to imagine not returning there some day.