Back in Doha ...

After a wonderful summer with family (especially grandchildren) in Canada, we arrived back in Qatar last Saturday. We had broken the journey with a few hours in a “day room” at the Heathrow Sheraton Skyline & were able to catch up on some sleep & also spent a couple of hours with Roger’s sister Jill & her daughter Gail. Our friend Betty also stayed at the hotel & so we travelled overnight together back to Doha.

Arriving early Saturday morning in the middle of Ramadan meant that there was little traffic & after getting through immigration at top speed (thanks to our “e-gate” passes) & finding our luggage immediately, we were back “home” before 09h.00. We felt happy to be back & to know how everything works in this unique country. Inevitably, new buildings had sprung up in the last two months while others (sometimes quite new) had been demolished.

We were able to get our new car (2006 Suzuki Jimny) working right away & managed a trip out to our local convenience grocery (Al-Meera) for some essential supplies. Getting used to the traffic culture again was a challenge, particularly in a gear-shift car, but we have survived the first few days & it’s even feeling like natural chaos once more.

Pat went back to school on Sunday for five days of administrative meetings & getting to know new staff including Tina, the new principal. The biggest shock for many was the announcement that James (social science teacher) was not returning, although he is around collecting his belongings. The reasons for his sudden departure are not widely known, but, for those of us who do know, it is still barely comprehensible. Just another reason to wonder at the workings of this strange world.

Equally distressing was the news that our good friend Jenny (known as one of the best teachers at the school) was facing imminent dismissal because of problems with her police clearance report. Nobody seems to know what the issues are but she will find out later this week whether she will be able to continue working &, if so, whether she will have to find a different school. Last year there were several teachers from another school who faced a similar problem & ended up being given three weeks to leave the country!

On Sunday, I joyfully made my way back to my favourite barber’s shop. The experience was as good as ever, although without the smoothie & the massage because, during Ramadan, they would be unacceptable. Yesterday’s challenge was to renew the vehicle registration which expires next week. Anticipating crowds & delays, we went to the Traffic Office after school only to find the place close. Obviously, we had forgotten Ramadan, although there seems to be no way of finding out the office hours. Feeling confident at it would open at 18h.00 we returned, only to find it still closed. A security guard told us that it would open from 20h.00 until 03h.00 next morning! So back we went at 20h.15 & were relieved (& surprised) to find that not only was it open but that the whole process took less than thirty minutes.

So we are gradually acclimatizing to the now/old life. This evening we are invited to an iftar (“break fast”) meal, served after sundown & traditionally opened with dates, followed by lamb & rice & other excellent foods. We went to an iftar last year & feel a lot more confident in taking part now. The meal this evening is hosted by the family of one of the Qatari teaching assistants at the school & it seems as though we will be the only non-Muslims there. The women will eat separately from the men, so we will have many different stories to share afterwards.

Friday marks the beginning of the school Eid break & we have booked our tickets to travel to Istanbul. We will stay in a hostel (Orient International) in the Sultanahmet district, very close to the Blue Mosque & other major attractions. We will probably spend the week there, taking one or two day trips outside the city & on the Bosphorus, with at least one eye open for new birds! We return to Doha on the 24^th & will be looking forward to the cooler weather & camping opportunities during the winter months. For now, we are still adjusting to the temperatures in the mid-thirties & a life spent largely inside air-conditioned buildings. Roger will venture out for a half-day’s birding tomorrow, still determined to reach his goal of 200 species. Only 40 to go!

p.s. The iftar meal was wonderful & the family that invited was welcoming & gracious. Roger spent the evening with the men (father, several brothers, & a brother-in-law) & Pat was sent off with the women. The food was outstanding (& the same in both places!) & everyone went out of their way to make us feel comfortable. It’s at such times that the gulf between Muslims & non-Muslims seems totally bridgeable & unnecessary, & yet there is so much suspicion of “the others” that it takes a few first steps to move forwards.

p.p.s. Roger spent six hours birding in mid-thirties heat along the northern coastline (Shamal) of Qatar. Two new species have been added to the list but, alas, no Cream Coloured Courser (target bird of the day). New car is great for birding rough (& soft) terrain.